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Beyond the Circle of Rocks: Our Tour of Stonehenge

Stonehenge is one of the most recognizable attractions in the world. It’s on many people’s “travel bucket list” for one reason or another. This world heritage site and prehistoric monument may look just like a collection of giant stones arranged in a circle but is actually shrouded in secrets and mystery.

Stonehenge BW
Located in England’s Salisbury Plain in Wiltshire County (about 2 hours from London), I admit Stonehenge was never high on my travel list considering the number of UK attractions out there. I’m more of a castles and museums gal. But, my husband wanted to see it so we compromised and chose a day tour that included Windsor Castle, the Roman Baths and Stonehenge. We arrived at Stonehenge late in the afternoon and the site was already crowded with tour buses. It is best recommended to visit during sunrise or sunset with less people and there are shadow effects present.

Stonehenge

Our tour guide gave us an hour here, which made me feel rushed. It’s one of the reasons we don’t do too many guided tours. Audio guides came along with our tickets. We went through a tunnel and on to a pathway that encircled the stones. We found this drawing of Stonehenge on how it might have looked in its original form.
Stonehenge original

There were markers with numbers along the path for us to punch into our audio guide detailing Stonehenge’s history and mystery. A rope barrier, about 50 ft (15 m) from the stones prevented visitors from getting too close. Apparently, visitors through the years used to chip off pieces of the rocks as souvenirs which ruined it for the rest of us.

Stonehenge with tourists
It was a bit disappointing that visitors can’t touch or even get close enough to the stones anymore. I wish I had that “WOW” moment when I first saw it but I didn’t. I did marvel at how massive the rocks were and its unique arrangements.  But, as I listened to the audio guide and learned more about its history, I grew to appreciate the incredible work it took to get these rocks here and how long they’ve withstood time and the elements.

Stonehenge with birds

Stonehenge was believed to have been built during the Neolithic Period or New Stone Age about 5,000 years ago but went through several phases of reconstruction. The rocks were arranged in a circle looking like they sprouted from the ground. The standing stones or sarsens were huge standing up to 29 feet (9 m) and most weighing almost 9 tons. The horizontal rocks on top of the sarsens are called “blue stones” based on their changing color when they’re wet or cut and can weigh up to 4 tons.

Stonehenge close-up

Mysteries and Theories of Stonehenge

Much of the appeal to Stonehenge are the mysteries surrounding it. What was its purpose? How did they move these massive rocks from hundreds of kilometers away to here with limited tools back then? One of the theories and a likely possibility was that builders transported the smaller blue stones through rivers. The bigger sarsens were moved on land using animal fat and logs. It still boggles my mind on how long it took them to transport these and how much manpower they needed. Archeologists and scientists have been baffled for years but here are some interesting theories of Stonehenge’s purpose.

Stonehenge england

1. They were used as religious or spiritual landmarks or as an astronomical observatory. It was a “Neolithic computing machine” with areas within the monument that could predict solstices, equinoxes and eclipses.

2. Folktales have said that Merlin, the powerful magician, created Stonehenge as a burial place for Britain’s king and princes. He used a giant who carried the stones to this location. My kids liked this one, of course.

3. My favorite theory is that the aliens built them. Geologists who studied Stonehenge believed these rocks came from Wales’ Preseli Halls – 250 km (155 miles away). Since no one has been able to show evidence that humans had tools used to move the colossal rocks, the logical solution was aliens with otherworldly strength were the only ones capable of moving and erecting them. When it’s inexplicable, blame it on the aliens.

4. But, the most probable theory and what experts believe is that Stonehenge was used as a “monument to the dead” and as a cemetery. The area was originally a burial ground supported by evidence of all the burial mounds around here and cremated remains found. In 2008, archeologists also uncovered what looked like remains of a large Neolithic village, a couple of miles away, where the builders who erected the stones lived. It was evidence that Stonehenge was a part of huge religious site.

Archaelogists found a giant timber circle version of the stones next to the village. They believed that the wooden version represented life since wood rotted while Stonehenge represented the afterlife which was permanent one. I really like this interpretation a lot.

Stonehenge close-up

We enjoyed seeing a couple of the artists immersed in painting Stonehenge and loved seeing their progress. It probably takes a lot of concentration with people constantly walking around and peering at your work.

Stonehenge artist
I thought its location in an open field in the English countryside would have that feeling of solitude but it didn’t. It was by two busy roads and we heard the sound of cars a lot in addition to all the tourists walking around.

Stonehenge field
Stonehenge with Kids

My kids found the rocks stacked and its formations interesting at first but after about 10 minutes into the path, they were bored. They didn’t have a kid-friendly audio guide version so it didn’t hold their interest for too long. We tried to give them an abbreviated version of what we were listening to but it didn’t help. In hindsight, I probably should have given them an activity sheet or brought a book along. I wasn’t surprised when my then seven-year old son asked, “Why are these rocks special again?” halfway through the visit. You can’t win them all…

Stonehenge with kids

They were more interested in running around the surrounding open field and looking for sheep in the nearby pasture. Unfortunately, my kids were spoiled after seeing opulent castles and churches a week before, exploring the British Museum’s treasures the previous day and playing an interesting scavenger hunt game at the Roman Baths a few hours earlier. So, a rock circle, despite its historical significance, didn’t appeal much to them.

Stonehenge with kids

If you’re visiting with kids, plan something to engage them unless you’ve got little history or archaeology buffs or you’re here briefly. Though, I’m hoping the new visitor’s center will help a lot. During our visit last July, we saw a large new visitor’s center and exhibition space, with archaeological treasures, that was being built. It opened in December 2013 and is supposed to enhance the Stonehenge experience. There’s a reconstructed Neolithic village in the outdoor area opening in April 2014 and visitors can see how the people lived 4,500 years ago. This would have altered my kids’ experience here tremendously. Stonehenge sign

I can certainly understand why Stonehenge is listed in many overrated tourist attractions. In its simplest description, it is a circle of rocks, in an open field, in the middle of nowhere. I learned that looking beyond its simplicity and delving into its history and mysteries makes a visit here more interesting and worthwhile. So, if you’re in England and have some time and visiting nearby attractions then we recommend a stopover.

Stonehenge

Visiting Stonehenge Basics and Tips

  • Check their website for the latest ticket prices and opening times. Prices for adult tickets average almost £14 or $23. Look into the Family Price for 2 adults and 3 kids.
  • Look into the overseas visitor pass if you’re driving around the UK and have plenty of time to visit other attractions.
  • Starting February 1, 2014, visitors must now buy timed tickets in advance and recommend booking in advance. Everyone must now board a shuttle for a 10-minute ride from the visitor’s center to Stonehenge. From what I’ve read, this has resulted to long wait times.This may not apply to visitors on organized tours.
  • Plan to spend some time here to walk around and explore the new visitor’s center unless you’re on a tour. With the new exhibits, I would hope the group tours would allow at least a visit of two hours. If not, look into doing it yourself or go on smaller, private tours.
  • Look into private sunrise or sunset tours. I’ve read that visitors can get closer to the rocks and have the place to themselves with great photo opportunities.
  • Another option for a Do-It-Yourself visit is taking the train to Salisbury from London (1 hr 20 min) and go on a Hop-On-hop-Off bus to Stonehenge.
  • Try to avoid visiting during solstice and equinox days (shortest and longest days of the year), which are sacred days for pagans and many people come here to worship and celebrate.
  • If traveling with kids, get the Children’s activity pack from the shop (£2.99) before you explore to engage the kids and enhance their visit. Ask for the free family audio guide tour. (We wish we had this during our visit).

*Have you visited Stonehenge? How was your experience?

Stonehenge with kids

59 thoughts on “Beyond the Circle of Rocks: Our Tour of Stonehenge”

  1. I am always in awe whenever I read about Stonehenge! Their mystery seems to grow on me, the exact purpose of its existence and also how it could have been built back then, these questions are fascinating!! Your kids seem to have had a great time there, even though it was a rushed tour. Have a great day Mary :)

    PS – I am hosting a contest on my blog, will be pleased if you can participate :)

  2. Love your tips, they are always so useful. I visited Stonehenge when I was a child, and I can remember being captivated. In those days we could get right up to the stones and touch them. It’s a shame that you can’t now.

  3. I have seen many pictures of Stonehenge – never thought much of it. But as you’ve pointed out, delving into the history and mysteries gives it another dimension.
    Shame you were not allowed to get too close.

    1. I felt the same way as you, Rachel. It didn’t jump out at me and I only found it rather interesting after learning more about it and of course, I found the mysteries intriguing. It is too bad some people ruined it for future visitors.

  4. Oh, too bad it’s now roped off, Mary. When I visited a few years ago, it wasn’t. At least, I don’t think so (I’ll have to look at my photos again) as we were able to enter the circle and get up close to the stones. Our guide warned us strenuously not to touch them.
    I’ve always wanted to see Stonehenge but didn’t want to see it with a bunch of people (I hate tours for that reason) so we booked a sunset tour. Our bus was the only one there so we had the run of the place. Our guide split our group in two and each had about 15 minutes in the circle. It was perfect.
    I also didn’t get the WOW factor I was expecting. They looked small at first sight but I think it’s the location — the huge open field just dwarfs them – the years of anticipation and the fact that I’ve seen hundreds of photos of the site, watched documentaries on it, etc. But the stones are gigantic! I looked like a midget next to them.

    1. You were so lucky, Marcia. I would have loved a sunrise or sunset tour. You’re right, the field sort of overwhelms them. I almost felt guilty for not feeling the wow factor and not too appreciative of many people’s bucket list item.

  5. If we visited London,I think I would end up dragging my family here, even though I strongly suspect that I’d be underwhelmed. For some reason, I thought it was behind a chain-link fence, so I would have been delighted to discover it is merely roped off. My kids would probably also rather just run around in the field, although my oldest might try to test my patience by pretending to jump over the rope. I always wonder about taking my kids to these Bucket List places where they end up bored. Will they look back on the visit later in life and retroactively get excited that they were there? Or will they tell their college friends that it’s really not all that exciting. Oh well, they have to come along with me, so no point in worrying. My book club read Outlander last year in which it turns out that a similar Henge in Ireland is a time portal. How about that possibility?!

    1. I hope you do take your family to see STonhenge, Michele. It’s one of those attractions you have to see once and I guess because it’s Stonehenge. You can’t see them when you’re nearby. Great to know my kids are in good company :) I think they will do one of those “Ive been there” statements and say something like “But, I don’t remember much”. So true, they’ll appreciate it more when they get older and right now, they’re going on trips to check off the bucket list items. So intriguing of the possibility of a time portal too.

  6. I visited Stonehenge when I was about 17 – and those were the days where you could hang out and touch the rocks. The roped off experience wouldn’t do it for me – or the tour buses.
    The photos in this blog are some of the best I’ve seen on the blog. Kudos to hubby – right?

    1. Thanks Leigh. Hubby took some of the pictures. If it’s the good ones, then he most likely took it :) Lucky you for having the experience to have been so close. I would have enjoyed the visit more if I was closer and it was less crowded.

  7. We visited Stonehenge on our first trip to London a few years ago. It was a stop added to our full-day Harry Potter tour and we stopped there first thing on our way out of the city. We had the site pretty much completely to ourselves at first which makes it far easier to have a “Wow” moment. It was quite a chilly morning though and we were on a schedule so we didn’t bother with the audio tour and just went for a brisk walk around the perimeter to snap some photos. As we were leaving, the busloads of tourists were rolling in so I was happy that we had made such an early start!!

  8. Mary, I love the mystery that surrounds Stonehenge, but I was a little disappointed. I understand why they don’t let people get too close, but it all seems to impersonal to me. Love your pics…as always…especially your b&W!

  9. I love the thought that aliens built them too :) It *is* pretty incredible to think the ancients built them. The science is too advanced, wouldn’t you think? That said, I’m envious you’d seen it. Even without the Wow moment, I would love to be there just once!

    1. Isn’t the alien theory cool :) It’s one of those places you have to see once in your life and yes, even without the wow moment. I hope you get back to Europe soon and make your way to London.

  10. Hi Mary, Stonehenge is one of my favorite ruins! It’s very intriguing and yes I like the mysteries that surround it. When I visited it many mnay years ago, people were still able to get upclose to the rocks. I was diaspointed myself when I heard few years ago that they were rope off. It’s not the same experience but I completely understand why they would do it.
    I certainly understand why the kids would be bored. I had to laugh at the comment of your son.

  11. Roped off areas, tour buses (as in many) and tour guides handing out tickets just doesn’t appeal to me either. If I get there, I get there on this one, but I am glad to read your report – I would probably have had the same response. Nice photos though!

  12. Lance | Trips By Lance

    I’m happy that I’ve seen Stonehenge, but it’s not one of those travel “wow” moments for me. My wife and I spent a couple of days in Bath and did a day tour from there. It was a rainy, cool early June afternoon. Yes, it was crowded and I do remember the cars on the nearby highway. I also remember a military helicopter flying low. I think there is a base nearby.

  13. This bring back memories! In 2003 when I lived in London, we were driving to Brighton and ended up getting lost and “stumbled upon” Stonehenge – oh the joys of not having GPS and using a paper map! The admission price was too high for us students at the time, so we just looked from the outside.
    I can totally understand your kids, as my daughter would have the same level of interest as they did. One thing is for sure: they will look back at these great memories with a big smile!
    Great post, Mary!

  14. I often hear people say they were disappointed with their stone henge visit. I can understand- the nearby road (it does kind of ruin it!), the ropes etc. My parents said that, even when they took my elder sisters when they were little, you could still walk amongst the rocks. It’s a shame you can’t now. I actually had a really great experience. My husband and I found directions online for a hike to stone henge. We walked by ourselves for 14 miles through stunning countryside and the end was arriving at stone henge. We arrived in the evening so there were no crowds and lovely light. I’d recommend that as it was all part of a great journey and so didn’t feel anti-climatic.

  15. Hello there, well your photos are lovely and gave me a good idea of the height of these amazing stones. I’ve never visited, but used to see Stonehenge as we whizzed by on the motorway. Oh, I would love to go there at dawn one day and with few people about, that would be a great way to see this circle.

  16. I must admit I never got that “Wow” moment at Stonehenge either. It was a disappointment, because I thought it would be a real thrill. We went over twenty years ago, and there were no guided tours at the time. That, coupled with the fact that we couldn’t get close and it was lightly raining, meant we didn’t enjoy it nearly as much as I’d hoped. It sounds like they’ve made some improvements, and based on your description I’d actually like to give it another try.

  17. If I was close by, I would visit. Like you, I’m not sure that I would go out of my way to get there. I love Audio guides! A bit of history buzzing through your head can add a lot to the experience. I’m going with the alien theory! :) Thanks for linking up this week.

  18. Lovely pictures! I also love the alien theory too, it just seems like it would be too “boring” if it was anything else :) Well I guess when you get down to it, they are a bunch of gigantic rocks in an odd formation but it’s pretty spectacular at the same time. I’m disappointed to hear you can’t touch them though!

  19. Mary, I’m so terribly I’m getting over here so late! It’s been one of those weeks. Gosh, your kids always make me smile! Why was it not high on your list to visit Stonehenge? I kept thinking about that reading the post :)

    1. Totally understand, Mike. I think I’ve just seen so many pictures of Stonehenge that it didn’t really appeal to me and wasn’t at the top of my list when I visited London. I was more interested in seeing London’s museums, its countryside, the royalty factor. But, Stonehenge was never high on my travel bucket list. It was more I guess I should go just because I’m nearby and it’s Stonehenge. I felt guilty feeling that considering how many people would have traded places with me :(

  20. My Mum lives not far from Stonehenge so we would take it for granted each time we drove past, but it is such a spiritual place. You can get close to the stones at Soltice, but you have to get up early enough! :)

  21. Amazing photos! I haven’t been to Stonehenge for years, but I remember being totally in awe of the stones, and how they built it. The mystery is one of the great things about it, though – it’s what makes the atmosphere!

  22. What fabulous time, you all had. And that sun, how lucky are you to get so much sunshine. That photo of your kids jumping put a big smile on my dial :) Thanks so much for linking up again with #SundayTraveler. I’ve also pinned these photos to the #ST board.

  23. Very interesting theories! I like the one with Merlin the magician, although the cemetery is probably a bit more realistic. :)

  24. i totally agree with you about the “wow” moment. stonehenge just didn’t do it for me. i mean yea there are photos out there of stonehenge at sunrise and sunset which look awesome. but seeing it in person was underwhelming

  25. I’m another underwhelmed person to see Stonehenge. I’ve driven past it many times and only once years and years ago felt the urge to stop and walk around. Yes it’s wierd how those stones got there but there are so many more interesting and wierd structures in the world to marvel at I’m afraid Sonehenge doesn’t do it for me at all. I hope the new visitor centre might make it a bit more interesting but if it involves long queues it doesn’t sound great. Your photos are lovely though!!

  26. Yes, guided tours can be a good way to see some sights, but when you get rushed and you cannot go by with your pace, it’s irritating. Impressive construction – each standing stone 9 m high and weighing almost 9 tons! The mystery about it makes me really curious. As much as I love the third theory, the forth theory sounds the most probable (or believable :-). Your kids are so cute on those photos.

  27. I have never been to Stonehenge, basically because I’ve never had a car in the UK to get out there :) I think it is fascinating though, even in its simplicity. Hey, I found it like that when I went to Uluru – it’s just just a rock!

  28. Brilliant post with great photos. I loved the theories and I’ve never actually been despite living in the UK. This has definitely made me want to visit! I think it would be worth spending some time doing the visitor centre and your sunset/sunrise tip would be great for photos. I love that there are places shrouded in mystery, makes it much more of an adventure

  29. I did a tour of Stonehenge and the Roman Baths and like you, I found the whole experience rushed. There were too many people and you’re so far from the rocks. I went in May and it was freezing too – really windy. While I’m glad to have seen it, I feel feel its a bit overrated. Thanks for linking up to the #SundayTraveler!

  30. It really is such a mind-boggling mystery as to how they moved those stones, but it does demonstrate the sheer determination and power of what the human mind can accomplish! The interpretation of life and the afterlife sounds really cool, but the Merlin theory (even though it’s highly implausible) is so much fun to consider. Nice post!

  31. My husband’s family lives nearby and we spend two months a year there. I was in awe the first time we were driving down the road and as we came over a hill there was Stonehenge. Unfortunately it’s on a main road we pass it frequently now so some of the WOW is gone. When friends visit we always show them Stonehenge (sometimes through the fence) and then head down the road to Avebury, which has several much larger stone circles. The circles are not easy to see from ground level but you can walk right up to the stones and touch them. It’s free to see, just watch your step, the sheep keep the grass short.

  32. We saw them a long time ago when you could get closer. I can imagine any kids (and adults, lol) would lose interest after 10 minutes. Your article is very interesting and informative – a good thing for parents thinking of going with their kids.

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