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Three Fabulous Fall Days in Dubrovnik

While most tourists flock in droves to Dubrovnik in the summer, they overlook the enchanting experience of visiting in the fall. Autumn brings a magical atmosphere, characterized by sparse crowds, pleasant weather, and a sense of tranquility. During our visit to Croatia in the first half of October, we were captivated by Dubrovnik, the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” made world famous as King’s Landing in the hit TV series, Game of Thrones (GOT). As we ventured outside the city’s walls to explore vineyards, olive groves, and the breathtaking Plitvice Lakes National Park, we reveled in the vibrant colors of the changing leaves.

View from Fort Lawrence Dubrovnik

Fall brings lower, off-season prices for hotels and flights, and offers many enjoyable events such as the Good Food Festival and the Autumn Variety Music Festival. The fall’s grape harvest enriches your exploration of the wine regions outside Dubrovnik, like the Pelješac Peninsula.

During the autumn months, you can also go truffle hunting, followed by delightful tastings. Although some restaurants and hotels close for the winter as November nears, this article will help you plan a memorable fall vacation, ensuring you immerse yourself into the best of this stunning city. Our ten days in Croatia during October were pure bliss, and we can’t wait to return at the same time of year! 

Dubrovnik St Lawrence Fortress

WHAT TO DO IN DUBROVNIK DURING FALL

DAY ONE: WELCOME TO OLD TOWN

Begin your day exploring the crown jewel of Dubrovnik, the City Walls dating from the 13th century. Arriving when the entrances open ensures that you snap the best photos without crowds. While fall attracts fewer tourists than peak season, you still want to beat the throngs of passengers who arrive on cruise ships later in the morning.

Strolling along these lofty walls affords spectacular views of the open sea, the city’s distinctive burnt orange roofs, church bell towers, and labyrinth of alleys. Traversing the walls was an absolute highlight for us!

TIP: Wear sturdy shoes and a hat, and don’t forget sunscreen. Stop along the way at a café for freshly squeezed juice, beer, coffee, or even a cocktail. You can only travel one direction once you start on the path. 

View from the City Walls Dubrovnik

Next up, grab a snack while meandering through the bustling market in Gundulićeva Poljana Square with tables overflowing with fresh fruit, vegetables, and locally-produced products. 

Afterward, visit Rector’s Palace, constructed in the 15th century to house Dubrovnik’s elected rector (aka governor). This architectural gem designed in a Gothic-Renaissance style invites you to discover beautifully restored rooms including the rector’s office, chambers, public spaces, and even a dungeon!

We enjoyed perusing displays including paintings, portraits, coin collections, safes, and other collectibles. The centerpiece of the palace is the grand staircase and interior courtyard, featured in GOT.

Rector's Palace Dubrovnik

Time for a real treat, lunch at Michelin-recommended, Taj Mahal. Don’t be deceived by the name—the menu features traditional Bosnian and Balkan cuisine, not Indian fare. Husband and wife team, Edin and Edina Macanović, spent years cultivating Taj Mahal into a charming restaurant featuring an imaginative menu and welcoming ambiance.

Whether you prefer eating al fresco in the quaint alley or in the colorful, intimate dining room with authentic Bosnian decor, this restaurant’s creative dishes delight. The menu focuses on seasonal Croatian produce and ethically-sourced meat from their very own butcher shop, Taj Butcheraj, which supports local free-range farms. 

We savored an array of dishes that exemplify Taj Mahal’s mastery—melding bold flavors reflecting the Bosnian culture. Standouts for us included the burek cigar, tasty veal wrapped in crispy dough, and the “must-order” cevapi, a grilled dish of minced meat (resembling sausage), flatbread, kajmak, and onions. Every bite of the creamy roasted pepper with kajmaj dip, served with honey and walnuts and fluffy pita was a triumph. Mmm!

Taj Mahal Dubrovnik

For me, the baked eggplant with yogurt was a highlight (this is one of many vegetarian dishes on the menu). I highly recommend you tempt your tastebuds with the Traditional Experience which is a sampler platter that enables you to eat a variety of their standout dishes, such as hadzijski cevapi (slow cooked beef and vegetables), cuftice (Bosnian meatballs), and klepe (veal and housemade egg pasta in pesto and cream sauce).

And don’t forget the flaky Baclava, lovingly prepared by the owner’s mother—it is a work of art! Taj Mahal serves up craft cocktails and offers an extensive wine list. Savor the recipes passed down over generations as you discover this culinary powerhouse. 

After lunch, choose your own adventure: 

-Consider one of many GOT Tours or visit the show’s famous filming locations on your own. Since I am not a GOT fan and my husband is, we compromised by integrating sites into our city exploration. Don’t miss the grand Jesuit Steps, famous for Cersei’s nude walk of shame (and quite an impressive architectural display)!

Dubrovnik Game of Thrones Walk of Shame

-Walk to the tip of the City Harbor for sweeping views, and then visit the Maritime Museum to learn about Dubrovnik’s seafaring history. 

We then set off to find the popular Buza II Bar. In Croatian, buza means “a hole in the wall,” and the casual hang-out definitely lives up to that name. Arrive early to snag a prime spot to soak in the gorgeous sunset over the Adriatic Sea, watch daring cliff divers splash into the water below, and toast with some local wine and cold beers (bottle-only).

TIP: Expect to walk many steep steps down to the bar area and bring euros. Buza II Bar offers better sunset views than Buza I Bar.

Sunset from Buza II Bar

For a formal night out, we dined at Posat, a top-rated sophisticated restaurant that shines with its seasonally-inspired, farm-to-table, slow-cooked Mediterranean cuisine. The luxurious ambiance features live piano music, an elegant indoor dining room, impeccable service, and a terrace boasting stunning views of the City Walls aglow at night. Posat serves the freshest seafood straight from their seawater aquarium, whips up their own breads, pasta, and desserts, and Chef Ivica Udženija even grows most of their vegetables.

We whetted our appetites with a welcome snack of white fish mousse, alongside an impressive selection of breads. For starters, we enjoyed fresh mozzarella, tomatoes, and sweet peppers with pesto, and also expertly-sliced and seasoned octopus carpaccio.

Posat Restaurant Dubrovnik

Standout dishes for us included tasty grilled scallops wrapped in zucchini served with pesto and beetroot risotto, creamy prawn risotto with delicious peppery parmesan sauce, and super fresh grilled meagre fish fillet au gratin. Thankfully, we saved room to share a chocolate bomb—sponge cake with dark chocolate mousse and ganache, enhanced by after-dinner drinks.

During dinner, we also savored the Cuvee Miljas Dry, a local white wine made from a blend of two native Croatian grapes. Our dinner was an incredible experience all around.

As night fell, we explored the city center by moonlight. What a romantic end to a memorable day.  

DAY TWO: STEPS, STRADUN & SIGHTSEEING 

Begin your day beyond the Old City walls by embarking on a strenuous climb up 200-plus steps to reach another “must-visit” historic site, Fort Lawrence (Fort Lovrijenac). Situated high above the city, this fortified defensive tower once protected against invasions from both land and sea. Fort Lawrence was featured in GOT as the Red Keep and is known as “Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar.” While the fortress is sparse inside, the views from the top are spectacular. 

Time to head back through the Old City’s main entrance, the Pile Gate, to shop along the grand pedestrian-only Stradun (Street), and watch buskers perform in front of Onofrio’s Large Fountain, adorned with sixteen stone masks and a statue of a dog. Spend hours simply meandering through the labyrinth of narrow alleys, grabbing a gelato, sipping coffee, and soaking in this magical town. 

The Stradun Dubrovnik

For lunch, we decided to save time and pick up sandwiches to go. But if you are in the mood for a relaxing sit-down meal, check out the well-rated Gradska Kavana Arsenal, conveniently located near Dubrovnik’s Luža Square, and with outdoor seating overlooking the marina. 

Dubrovnik - Marina

For the afternoon, select one or more of the following activities to entertain your family:

-Get onto the water! Book a sailboat or speedboat tour, or rent a kayak (or take a kayak tour), to explore the majestic coastline. 

-Experience the mid-14th century Franciscan Monastery, which includes a serene cloister, museum, and historic pharmacy. 

Franciscan Monastery Dubrovnik

-Discover some of the city’s many religious sites including the Dubrovnik Synagogue and Museum (the oldest Sephardic Jewish Temple in the world), Church of St. Ignatius, Church of St. Blaise, Church of St. Dominic, Church of St. Francis, and Dubrovnik Cathedral

To cap off our day in Old Town, we dined at Michelin-recommended Marco Polo. This cozy family restaurant, set in a romantic courtyard, lives up to the hype! Marco Polo offers a creative blend of traditional and modern Dalmatian dishes inspired by the heritage of Croatia and the Silk Road, and the family’s long-term residency in Dubrovnik.

The menu embodies their gastro philosophy of “rustic recipes, fresh ingredients and modern interpretation,” showcasing a commitment to local ingredients and Croatian wines. Marco Polo prides itself on serving dishes which draw inspiration from recipes of the owners’ grandmothers alongside contemporary trends.

Our starters blew us away. The Dalmatian prosciutto, smoked for 45 days, dried by the natural Dalmatian “Bura” north wind,and then matured for another 16 months, accompanied beautifully by fig jam, melts in your mouth. The Istrian fuži, a lip-smacking bowl of homemade pasta in a creamy white sauce, accented by succulent shrimp and mushrooms, finished with fresh Istrian black truffle leaves, left us dazzled—the best truffle dish we’ve ever encountered!

Marco Polo Dubrovnik

For our main courses, we relished the house speciality, 24-hour tender pork belly enveloped in a flavorful veal sauce. It was so fun cooking the sizzling beefsteak at our table on a heated lava stone. Vegetarians and seafood lovers will face tough choices with mouthwatering options like their signature blue tuna steak in crispy sesame crust, sea bass fillet with caramelized fennel and cherry tomato marmalade, and cauliflower steak with black lentils.

The grand finale was My Grandma’s Cake, a must-order dessert encapsulating the great care poured into Marco Polo’s dishes. With attentive service and a dimly lit, charming outdoor setting, our dinner filled us with joyful memories. 

After dinner we toasted the evening in the Hilton Dubrovnik’s very sophisticated Imperial Bar and Lounge. Sharing stories with fellow travelers while enjoying drinks inspired by the 19th-century Shaw’s Book of Cocktails made the night even more unforgettable. If you prefer a more lively end to the night, we walked by many buzzing bars and nightclubs within the walls of the Old Town on our circuitous route back to our hotel. 

DAY THREE: BEYOND THE CITY WALLS

Today’s a fantastic day to explore beyond the city center! Start with a quick taxi boat ride from the Old Port to the compact Lokrum Island (just about one-third square mile), a nature preserve where you’ll be greeted by wild peacocks and rabbits. Here you can walk through the ruins of an abandoned 11th-century monastery, a star-shaped fortress from Napoleon’s era, exotic botanical gardens, and even take a dip in the island’s “Dead Sea” salt water lake.

View of Lokrum Island from the walls

For you GOT fans, don’t forget to snap a photo sitting in the original Iron Throne in the visitor center. TIP: During low season in the fall, boats to Lokrum run less frequently than peak season in the summer.

After returning to town, hop a short ride to Hotel More Dubrovnik in Lapad, right beyond Dubrovnik. Enjoy a casual lunch at the hotel’s Waterfront Terrace with sweeping views of the Bay of Lapad. Then head inside and marvel at the hotel’s other-worldly, tri-level natural Cave Bar, rightfully named one of the coolest bars in the world!

Cave bar at Hotel More

Order a refreshing cocktail and seek out the most photogenic spot—a side room with a towering and glowing inner grotto. Fabulous! If you have extra time, relax at the nearby pristine Lapad Bay Beach or stroll along the Lapad Promenade, enjoying the sea breeze.

A few hours before sunset, take the Dubrovnik Cable Car up Mt. Srd for incredible views. History buffs can begin their time on Mt. Srd by visiting the Homeland War Museum at Fort Imperial, which showcases original photographs, military gear, and other memorabilia.

Dubrovnik Cable Car up Mt. Srd

I highly recommend you get a cocktail at the very popular Panorama Restaurant, famed for the very best views in all of Dubrovnik—be sure to book a reservation weeks ahead if you plan to dine here. The vistas of the Old City, the shimmering Adriatic Sea, and nearby islands are absolutely breathtaking. If you stay until darkness falls, you will be in for a treat as the city lights below begin to twinkle.  

After our cable car ride down the mountain, we dined at the enchanting Imperial Terrace at the Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, a haven for delicious Dalmatian dishes, Croatian wines, and nostalgic cocktails. Whether you choose the grand terrace overlooking Fort Lawrence or the spacious dining room, you’re destined for a special night! The Mediterranean-inspired menu thoughtfully crafted by Executive Chef Julija Bašić, blends creative contemporary takes on cherished family recipes, accented by locally-sourced produce. 

We began our culinary journey with a curated Croatian Antipasto platter featuring Dalmatian prosciutto, smoked sausage, Slavonian kulen, local cheese, and other treats. We also savored the Adriatic shrimp in decadent garlic butter. Yummy! My husband relished his tenderloin cut of beef from a Croatian family farm, accompanied by fried sweet potatoes. I am so glad I took our server’s advice and ordered the Škartoc Sea Bass fillet with root vegetables and lemon cream sauce.

Imperial Terrace Dubrovnik

The traditional Dalmatian baking-in-parchment technique produced a tender, flavorful dish by steaming the ingredients in their own juices—absolute perfection. We capped off our meal by splitting the made-from-scratch dark chocolate soufflé paired with bitter orange ice cream, celebrating the city of Dubrovnik, where countless courtyards and gardens are adorned with bitter orange trees. 

We ended our night on our balcony with a bottle of chilled champagne under the silver moon, awed by the priceless views. 

WHERE TO STAY

Our stay at the magnificent Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik was truly extraordinary and captivated us in every single way! This iconic hotel with original 19th-century architectural features dating from 1897 has been completely renovated. From the tastefully decorated, airy common spaces and the elegant lobby bar to the executive lounge offering delightful drinks and tasty treats, every moment felt exceptional.

The expansive breakfast buffet provided an energizing start to each day. The hotel is a luxurious retreat featuring a sunlit, glass-roof indoor pool, a well-equipped fitness center, and even a full-service spa providing massages, body scrubs, facials, laser therapy, and more. 

And our suite was a dreamy oasis, transforming our stay into the ultimate vacation. Our balcony offered the most stunning views of the Adriatic Sea, the Old City Walls, and Fort Lawrence— an awe-inspiring experience from sunrise to sunset. With unparalleled hospitality, the staff’s friendly and polite nature made our stay even more memorable.

View from the balcony at the Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik

With a central location mere steps from the Old City, we easily returned to our room to freshen up before dinner or adapt to the changing weather or activities. We will definitely stay again at the Hilton the next time we visit Dubrovnik! 

PRACTICAL TIPS FOR VISITING DUBROVNIK IN FALL

  • Proper footwear: Even though a Dalmatian vacation may tempt you ladies to wear cute sundresses with strappy sandals or heels, trust me, choose flats to keep your adventures safe. 
  • Prepare for a variety of weather: We were fortunate to enjoy sunny, warm days during our fall visit, but be ready for rain or a cold snap. 
  • Save money and time: Purchase the Dubrovnik Pass online before you arrive in the city. This pass is the key to skipping lines and saving money. For the price of the entrance to the City Walls, a Dubrovnik Pass grants you access to many other top attractions and perks!
  • Figure out your timing: Since the sun sets earlier in fall than in the summer, starting your day earlier allows you to fully take advantage of the daylight hours. 
  • Book ahead: Don’t assume the fall means a totally empty city. Many tourists have discovered the allure of exploring Dubrovnik off-season, and cruise ships continue to stop there, so consider booking your meals, tours, and top attractions in advance. See how you can spend the day in Dubrovnik if on a cruise tour.
Dubrovnik Bokar Fortress
  • Carry cash: Unlike other European cities, Dubrovnik’s shops and restaurants often require payment in euros. 
  • Choose a rideshare over taxis: Most locals suggest using rideshare apps to save money as well as to lock in a fare upfront to avoid surprises. 
  • Check hours and days open: During the fall, some attractions and restaurants have more limited hours or may even be closed. Always check before setting out for the day.  
  • Consider a day trip: Dubrovnik serves as a centrally-located base for taking day trips to the neighboring countries of Montenegro and Bosnia and the beautiful island of Korčula.

DISCLAIMER

The author was provided with some discounted and/or complimentary meals so that she could try the restaurants and review them for your information. All opinions are her own. Most images courtesy of Lisa Grabelle unless otherwise noted.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

This guest post was written by Lisa Grabelle. Lisa, a freelance travel writer, has been traveling all her life…44 countries and loving it! Originally from the sunny skies of Miami, Lisa, a former big firm lawyer, lives near Philadelphia. Travel is her passion. As soon as one vacation ends, Lisa busily plans her next adventure for her non-stop family of adventurers. Lisa’s motto is “don’t just visit the destination…live it!” You can follow Lisa on Instagram.

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Dubrovnik in Fall

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