Burano: Isle of Lace and Pastels

Have you ever visited a place that left a lasting impression you immediately put it back on your travel list for a return visit?  The Italian island of Burano, 40 minutes by motorboat from Venice,  was one of those places for me.  During a trip to Venice last November 2010,  my husband and I went on a half-day tour to explore the outer islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello on the Venetian lagoon.   (This was part of a whirlwind, European trip without the kids for our 10-year anniversary).  While the other two islands were a delight to visit, Burano was the highlight of this tour for us.

Burano was our last stop and as we neared the port, it was hard not to miss its most distinct landmark, a leaning bell tower.  This was the campanile for the Church of San Martino.  This tower has been leaning due to the soft ground it stands on.  Although, as we got closer, the slanting didn’t look so bad.

However, the things that surely stood out were the brightly colored buildings and houses that make this island so unique.  It almost looked like it belonged in a fairy tale land.  It was believed that the local fishermen painted their houses to distinguish it from a distance when returning home at dark hours especially during the winter fog.

We were told that it is against the law for adjacent houses to have the same colors here.  It was also interesting to know that homeowners must submit requests to the government when changing their home colors.  The rules were set to ensure there is a variety of colors throughout the islands’ different sections.  I guess it really wouldn’t be as picturesque if all the primary colors were on one side and the pastels on the other.  So far, the system has worked to make it stand out from the other islands on the lagoon.

Burano is actually made up of four islands, separated by narrow canals and connected by small bridges.  The houses were lined in narrow streets alongside small canals.  In a way, it was similar to Venice but in a smaller scale, and in a quieter and more quaint way.

It is also widely known for its lace making traditions.  There was even a Lace Museum here with various exhibits on lace design and the history of lace making on the island.  Unfortunately, it was closed by the time we got there.   Our tour ushered us into one of the lace stores for a visit though.  The amount of lace products (doilies, table linens, handkerchiefs and clothes) that adorned the walls and pretty much every available space was astonishing.  Some simple, some extravagant but all beautiful.

It was apparent the men in our tour group really felt out of place in this world of daintiness and probably wondered the best way for a quick exit.  My husband stuck with me as I wandered about, not for sheer interest, but to make sure I didn’t overspend. We were told that the art of lace making is dying here and most of the items sold are now machine made or imported.  The handmade ones are still available but with steep prices.

There was a sweet lady seated by the stairway making lace.  The patience, skills and endurance in doing those intricate designs are admirable.  It was fascinating to see her work her magic.  I don’t know if that’s where she usually sat or she was purposely situated there for the tourists coming in.

We were given half an hour to stroll the streets which really wasn’t enough time to explore the little alleys and charming squares. There was one main street, Calle Galuppi,  which was filled with lace shops, souvenir stores and bakeries.  Some shops had already closed and most tourists were gone.  It was fairly quiet and was such a contrast to all the activity in Venice.  We found the residents and shopkeepers friendly and welcoming during our visit.

We felt particularly rushed on this tour and would rather have focused on one or two of the islands for a day trip.  While it provided a wonderful preview, I needed more time to explore the islands.  We would definitely love to do an extended return trip with the kids to this colorful island.  We took countless photos on this trip and the Burano pictures have remained as some of my favorites.

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